Thursday, 15 January 2009

Keeping it in the family

I love this shot of Charlie and Joe Casely-Hayford in their white shirts.

I picked up a copy of the latest issue of i-D over the weekend and I must say, the Manhood issue is far better than any issue that I've read for as long as I can remember, for a start it doesn't feel and read like a love letter to the 90s. Within the issue I came across Casely-Hayford who are the first brand in high fashion to have a father and son working together at the creative helm. Joe has long demonstrated his ability to draw upon and connect his formal training in tailoring and fashion . Throughout his career he has pushed and examined menswear with his intriguing and influential innovation. From the deconstructed tailoring of the 80s (three dimensional lapels and exposed seams) to oversized knitwear and the fusion between sportswear and formal clothing in the 90s. Now this well seasoned hand has joined forces with his son, Charlie, who has to be one of London's most stylish chaps (I remember this Sartorialist shot in particular) who has recently become the face of Dr Martens alongside Coco Summer..

Here is an excerpt from the i-D interview...

i-D: What prompted this new father-son venture?
JCH: I still feel as excited as when when I first walked through the doors of St. Martins. I don't feel like I've created my greatest work yet. It seemed natural to take this step with Charlie who has been a confidant and collaborator for some time. I have a great deal of respect for Charlie's discipline and focus. His input isn't always that of the young avant garde experimentalist. He is often conservative and pensive and approaches things from a classical standpoint. So it isn't predetermined that I stand for tradition and he the innovation. We believe that no other brand can capture the duality of English Sartorialism and British Anarchy, and celebrate the beauty of high art and street culture simultaneously. We aim to offer a new and considered vision of English style in the 21st Century.

The duality of the brand reflects Joe's design history which has seen him creating stage clothes for bands like Clash to dressing the highest members of the British establishment whilst at Gieves & Hawkes.




Within their first show they combine the urbane qualities of Edward VIII, the first modern day English sartorialist, with the contemporary sportswear of London's street culture. The sense of duality is continued with a simultaneous emphasis on lightness and substance. Technical fabrics are fused with formal wear, sporting items formalised through the use of fine silk dog tooth jersey fabric, whilst contemporary twists underplay suits.

One of the main concepts behind the house is celebrating "Made in Japan, designed in London", with the British spirit clearing running through the clothes. The majority of the products are made in Japan (we often say that the Japanese do most things better) with a smaller part of the collection made by craftsmen in the UK and Italy. Shoes are bench made in Northampton, hand made silk ties are woken in Italy; printed silk scarves come from Italy and hand knitted pieces from Scotland. The focus is on creativity, attention to detail and craftsmanship, I wish every brand focused on the same ideals.

I am fascinated by the father and son element to this brand and can't help but think that I wish that my father was a leading designer. This is certainly a brand to keep an eye on. The label is currently only being stocked in Dover St Market in London and a few places in Japan.

7 comments:

James said...

Wow, thanks for posting guys.

Mat Ahoy - Buckets and Spades said...

i picked up this months i-d last week when i saw my friends copy and quickly found out it was a mens only edition. a great look into next seasons menswear, i like the looks of the paul smith, lanvin, burberry, siblings, moschino and hermes collections.


this collection looks really strong, i'm liking the idea of a black top button a an all white shirt.

TheSundayBest said...

Good stuff for certain - the son was photographed by the father for a spread of that nature and I always wondered who he was.

Style Salvage Steve said...

James: No problem, we aim to please.
Mat ahoy: I was pretty impressed by the issue. One person makes the new issue as good at is, Charlie Porter. His round up of the ss09 shows was spot on. Burberry is still my favourite.
The Sunday Best: Where did you see this spread?

Style Salvage Steve said...

I popped in to Dover Street this afternoon and got to see the collection on the rails...so nice! The cut and mix of fabrics is perfect.

fuchsiaboy said...

exciting from the looks of it.

how's the price point steve?

p.s.

havent got the socks email yet from happy feet ;)

Style Salvage Steve said...

Fuschiaboy: I thought you'd like it! The shirts which left me salviating were £225.
I will chase the Happy Socks people with an email but they told us that they'd dropped you an email. It should have come from Anndala Ehrstedt.

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