Daniel Jubb, 24, the owner of the moustache, looks like a Victorian scientist transposed to the 21st century
Saturday, 29 November 2008
Daniel Jubb, 24, the owner of the moustache, looks like a Victorian scientist transposed to the 21st century
Friday, 28 November 2008
At just just nine sq metres in size (it is only a touch larger than my childhood bedroom which only allowed my bed, a small television set and my sega mega drive) but it is so welcoming and feels so homely. The shop feels like a well thought out living room., summed up by prints of Alexis Armanet's Sumo Shots adorning the wall above the fireplace ..I just wish it was my living room! I was instantly greeted by a chirpy assistant who was happy to chat and show me the range of products. Upon showing me the Porter Baby Boston Bag I was so very close to sacrificing all self control and handing over my debit card to the lovely lady and asking to take one of everything! Fortunately, just before I could reach into my card wallet and begin mass purchasing everything from the array of goods, in walked Yoshitsugu Tagaki who is Production Editor of KitaKoga which pushed my excitement levels over the edge and I couldn't take any more...I paid for the latest issue and departed with a smile on my face.
Before I left, the helpful assistant informed me that the space will constantly evolve, the stock will change on a regular basis right up until the shop closes in March. This store is a safe haven away from the crowds and madness of Oxford Street...I know where I will be shopping for Christmas Gifts (for others...but mostly for myself!) and if you have a chance you should definitely pop in.
This collection, as with each season, evolved from a poem written by Kashoura. The latest collection explores the ideas of the 'ManBoy' and the encapsulating poem can be read below.
CLOTHES………….introduced to conceal modesty.
… Necessary to hide defects and used to reduce everyone to a decent insignificance of physique, to improve the imaginings of the male body.
Dazzled by the confusion of knowing how to look,
From the 70/80’s super extreme to the recent heroin chic,
‘ ..Here comes the man boy.. ‘
The new man of narcissism, glowing, sweating and grinning, an exploding signifier of the so called post modern condition
He is a reaction,
a narcissist yet modest, a man, but still a boy.
A body that is perfectly formed, whilst exhibiting manliness in its strongest form.
We are a visual and stylistic culture.
Men are visual commodities
The cut of jeans
Ways of walking and being.
Points of comparison between men, not just as aggressive competitors but as stylists in the same club.
Men and others, visually and as objects of consumer desire.
The body in the gaze becomes an public object, it is a surface, a shape, a volume. With the ever powering campaigns and advertising the moving body must be on display and available for inspection. Whether in visual representation or personal form.
…..He is educated
aware of his identity and thus able to move beyond the sphere of unreflecting immediacy,
to raise the question of the purpose and function he serves in human existence as a whole.
Truest manliness will be achieved by freedom rather than a slavish subservience to convention.
A raw material sculpted through clothes.
Designs used to heighten anatomical maleness + Experience pleasures around the body .
...A reassertion of masculinity over femininity
Thursday, 27 November 2008
As well as messing around in photoshop we have been plotting a number of post ideas. This is what we have coming up (in no particular order):
1) Men Represent DIY - The first round of the the 'how to' posts along with the results will be posted after the weekend. We will give you a hint about our projects...Steve's involves feathers whilst EJ's involves facial hair...intrigued and worried? well you should be!
2) Style Salvage Gift Ideas - as the festive season is fast approaching we will walk the streets and surf the web to find the best gift ideas (also, it will give you an idea if you want to send us something)
3) Advent Calender - rather than a piece of dubious chocolate we will give you a picture postcard each day
4) Best of British - inspired by acontinouslean's The American List we will unveil the very best products and brands originating and producing in this Island.
5) Magazine Review Videos - Like the true junkie that he is Steve is waiting for the next batch of men's style journalism to hit the shops, as soon as they do we will digest and review them for your viewing pleasure.
So, we are sure that you'll agree that there is lots to look forward to! It doesn't matter if you love the Christmas season or scream bah humbug at every given opportunity because we are going to ensure that December is going to be a good month.
Wednesday, 26 November 2008
The function of frames is just not merely to suspend a pair of corrective lenses before the eyes of a myopic or the hyperopic but also to serve as a statement of style. These days, glasses are not just for seeing things that little bit clearer, but for adding clarity to a chaps style. Mankind has come along way from playgrounds filled with mobs chanting 'Four Eyes' just before beating up the latest victim of bespectacled bullying. We are now beginning to see glasses as more than just a handy aid for the visually impaired, they are an object which can make the wearer more interesting, beautiful and desirable. I leave you with the wise words of Philip Crangi as featured in Fantastic Man:
"I never discriminate against the bespectacled. I think people in glasses are really sexy. Unless they're not of course."
Tuesday, 25 November 2008
Men's style is such an interesting and constantly evolving entity. Who would've thought just a few years ago that someone who advocated high trousers and the shrunken suit would become the toast of the sartorial town? Browne started selling the suits we have grown to love in 2001 and his collections have always been focused around the suit, building on its links to menswear from the past and how the oddity of its proportions threw its reference points into postmodern relief. Since 2001 Browne has of course received many plaudits but he has also received a great deal of negative reviews - there is a constant criticism that the designer is making clothes that look weird on anyone who isn't Thom Browne...I have however seen many Thom Browne's walking the streets this year. His designs have slowly eroded many of our beliefs on what a good suit should be, he has made us question many things about something so simple (or so we thought) as the practical, 'safe' option, the suit. He has done this to such an extent that the same people who initially laughed at the proportions of his creations are now desperate for his next line, whilst feeling self conscious if their ankles are covered. In my opinion he deserves the designer of the year accolade for this alone. Are you happy with GQ's choice?
Monday, 24 November 2008
Wednesday, 19 November 2008
I've noticed that a lot of my favourite women's style blogs do some AMAZING DIY projects, but it's something you very rarely see on men's. Is it because crafts are more popular among the ladies? Do they take more pride in being able to say 'oh this? I made it myself'?
We'd love to see your DIY projects: write up how-tos, create photo guides, film how-to videos. Show the world that you're all just as innovative as the ladies (we know you are, but the world should know too).
Here are a few man-friendly DIY projects to inspire you:
A rather fantastic, if probably time consuming shredded t shirt
Knit your own Steve Zissou hat!
Slim those trousers!
Make an ascot tie out of normal ties
Your project can be as large or as small as you want: you can simply change 3 buttons on a cardigan or you can create your own range of knitwear. Just make sure you write up/film/photograph what you did and the results.
Hours after the interview all I could think about was what might come out of the latest recession. It inspired me to roll my creative sleeves up and do something whilst riding this 'nothing to lose mentality'. What would you like to see evolve out of this current economic crisis?
Monday, 17 November 2008
For those of you who have (somehow) not seen the film and have no idea what I'm talking about I urge you see it or at the very least watch the trailer below:
Trailers of this era are so very different to the ones today...I prefer the slow pace of yesteryear.
Sunday, 16 November 2008
The trousers gave me an opportunity to try out one of my recent purchases...the Carola Euler cardigan and it works perfectly here. As you can see I decided to style the trousers by turning myself into the offspring of a Samurai and Obi-Wan Kenobi...I just wish I had a lightsabre. I'm not sure that I would actually wear these out...they are a little tight in the calf for my liking (I need a 12 - curse my muscular calves) but I enjoyed wearing them for this post regardless.
Were you one of those guys pilfering the womenswear rails? Please let us know if you were and send us your pics!
Please keep up the good work.
NB - For some background information on the brand a great interview with Hiroki Nakamura is available on BeingHunted and can be read here.
Saturday, 15 November 2008
With all this talk of recessions and the bloody 'credit crunch', this wallet immediately appealed to me. I'd meant to post about it a while ago and it was only when going through my ridiculously extensive bookmarks (the boyfriend was just laughing at them actually... but there's a lot of internet to try and remember!) that I was reminded of my oversight.
It's made from buttery soft kid leather, stitched with heavy duty teal thread and also available emblazoned with the words 'think twice' - either wallet might help prevent you squandering your cash on throwaway fashion... unless of course that's what you really want to do! I am aware that it's a funny kind of economy to buy something to help you to stop buying things but... shhh!
This is a great find but the people who need it might need a stronger phrased question to make them think twice about any purchase. I've been really good recently, I've not bought anything, I'm saving up for a few things; Christmas, a new laptop, a bespoke suit...I just can't decide what I need most (I guess I don't have much choice when it comes to Christmas). Your favourites list is a frightening thing, you have half the internet on it!
Steve - It was never a regular read of mine but I always flicked through it at the newsagents. The price of Wallpaper was off putting...Now I wished I had bought more copies.
Is there something missing in menswear or men's accessories that makes you want to do something about it? I know TheSundayBest has always called for mid-priced accessories for men and I would love to partner with him one day...but how about the rest of you? Also, which side of the fence are you when it comes to Mr Brûlé?
Friday, 14 November 2008
I think you've been taking the crazy pills. Short sleeved and leather? So the tops of your arms can be terribly sweaty while your forearms stay cool? Perhaps it looks nicer in person, but in that picture... no. The colourful backpacks are alright, especially the blue one, so long as they're not going to try charging 80 quid for them. The desert boots just aren't as nice as the Clarks ones. If they're significantly cheaper they might be an acceptable substitute, but they're just not cutting it for me at the moment.
Wow, this is a very disagreeable saturday morning for me so far!
Wednesday, 12 November 2008
First, the sketches. These come from JP of cantilevered style. Goddamn it, is everyone taking secret drawing lessons??
Now, the links:
How much do I want these bad boys? Answer: a lot. I think I'd switch the white laces for black ones, but otherwise they'd be good to go for the winter party season (I refuse to talk about the C word yet).
How's your mustache coming along for Movember? If you are in need of inspiration, look no further than these mustache-themed wedding photos (thank Jennine for the heads-up!)
Finally, do you ever fling your shoes over power lines? (don't we all? Wait, no we don't, I love my trainers too much to chuck them even when they're veyr very dead). Read this interview as these guys would like to hear from you!
Tuesday, 11 November 2008
Monday, 10 November 2008
So I am looking for plucky volunteers who are eager to stand in line for me. To save time, I've started an imaginary conversation with you...
The ball, or rather the Kinder Egg is in your court. Upon reading this post EJ has suggested two smarter options but I find them just too sneaky but for those interest in the cunning workings of her mind, they were:
1) call H&M and see where else (other than the flagship store) the collection will be available and therefore bypass the crowds
2) Use Susie's power and influence to see if she can locate the polka dot pieces for me without going near a physical store.
So even though West might have been inpsired by a shallow ’80s banker with an antisocial personality disorder and homicidal tendencies...it has to beat the generic inspirations and codes that most rappers live by. Whatever you think about the man and the music, you have to appreciate his sense of style and that he doesn't fit into the genre's stereotypes. Just look at him in the above press shot!
Thursday, 6 November 2008
I hope you are well. Love everything about the blog, a real refreshing (and adult) take on men's fashion. Just had a quick question which I was hoping you may be able to help me out with. I'm looking to get hold of a bespoke suit (a penchant of yours I know), but am looking to get one a little cheaper than the £2,000 price mark. Have been doing some serious reading on the askandy forum which has proved quite informative, with a few places coming highly recommended for a price of £1,000. My only slight concern is that they probably tailor for the professional classes and my 2-piece isn't for work (I work in TV so would prob be a little toooo much) but for lounging and wearing to dinner etc. Just wondered if you had any recommendations for places around the London area that may do a reasonable bespoke number, with a young-outlook. Plus, I'm tall and skinny, so any where you think they may be able to cater to that would be great. Anyway, any help you could offer would be gratefully received, even if it's just pointing me in another blog direction.
Wednesday, 5 November 2008
Instead of the manly pursuit of watching the Champions League football (the real game is tonight's anyway) I chose to watch the final instalment of British Style Genius. The show looked at a number of key street style movements which occurred in the aftermath world war two, beginning with Teddy Boys and ending with chavs (are chavs really the last bastion of Great British street style? I really hope not). My favourite of the looks featured were the mods. The Mod look was one of cool, streamlined, smart suits and the amount of care and thought which went into getting the look really appeals to me. There was a definite sense of aspiration, these youths didn't want to live the lives of their parents, they wanted to break away from tradition and created something special. There were a number of catalysts which helped this street style movement grow but one of closest ones to my heart (because I was a spoilt youth myself) is the fact that teenagers had greater disposable income than ever before. They relished their leisure time, going to nightclubs, listening to music and collecting records - I would be content in life as a Mod.
Which street style do you admire most and why?
I am clearly more manly than you (should I be admitting that?) as I was enjoying watching Chelsea lose (forza Roma!). I've managed to miss this entire series actually so hopefully they'll repeat it on BBC4 sometime.
The men of Manchester... wait, I'll start that again. The clothes orientated men of Manchester all seem to tend towards a mod-inspired look. Sharp haircuts and a particular type of tailoring are popular... a look carefully balanced between smart and casual. I love it!
I've always been drawn to people who favour tailoring, but done their own way. This doesn't seem to be so much a style tribe though, rather a certain type of male who you meet from time to time. Someone who manages to find that elusive vein of men's vintage... someone who was wearing waistcoats and bow ties before you'd even learnt how to tie a regular tie.
As for so-called chavs, I have to say I've been noticing more and more darn stylish ones lately, albeit stylish in a different way to how I normally like. A lot of them seem to be into the limited edition trainers I covet myself (I actually sought out and bought my current favourite trainers after seeing them on some lad's feet outside the Arndale) and some quality casualwear.
Ok, that's enough from me for now. I'll see you and Princess Anne tomorrow
Monday, 3 November 2008
Is there anything to salvage from di Caprio's outfit?
Disclaimer: If I've offended anyone by posting about my distaste for this particular choice of footwear, I apologise (for your bad taste, mwahaha). In all seriousness thought, if you think you wear these boots wear then let us know, you can even send us images and who knows you might be able to change my mind.
Oh god, this is really testing my salvaging skills... um, um... like the purple, just not on Mr DiCaprio? At least he's adding colour to his wardrobe? Maybe there's something tasty in that plastic bag?? Oh, I give up. Perhaps this is just his fancy dress costume for Halloween... and he's dressing as JLo from about 8 years ago... Someone please tell me this is a belated April Fools joke!
The first issue of BUCK came out last week and I managed to pick it up from the smallest of newsagents come tuck shops just outside of my workplace - if I can get it there it must be widely available because ordinarily they have none of my usual reads. Have you had a chance to flick through it yet at the newstands? To celebrate the launch of this men's lifestyle magazine aimed at twenty somethings we had to do something special and what could be more special than throwing a tea party where I could discuss the issue with one Susie Bubble. We were inspired by a recent documentary which we caught on BBC4 the other night on David Oglivy (the first and real Mad Man - I recommend the documentary if you've not seen it already) who without fail had tea at 4:30. Who knows maybe we can make this a regular feature and throw tea parties across the land where one and all can discuss the goings on within menswear over a cup of tea and a biscuit. The world would be a better place if everything shut down at tea time and practiced this great tradition.
As a first issue this is really promising, the aesthetics of each page are impressive and they are filled with varied content, everything from recipes to home furnishings to how to tie a bow tie. For me this publication fills a gap within the men's style magazine market. For too long the focus has been on aspirational men's lifestyle magazines for middle aged men and as the menswear market has developed in recent years it is great to see the magazine market grow and support it. There are a number of exciting menswear designers - J.W Anderson, Siv Stodal, Carola Euler, SOAR, Bjork & McElligott to name just a few (a number are featured in this issue) and it is great to see a magazine give such designers a platform and voice rather than merely showcasing the usual suspects. My only concern would be it's appeal outside of London and I fear that it will be your main criticsim as well. However, there are so many anglophiles interested in the London scene that this magazine will have a solid readership from the off. What more, the second issue is the New York issue - so a variety of location focus looks to be a key facet of the publication and it should be able to keep everyone happy! I am keen to see how they approach the New York issue, I hope it manages to keep the insider feel and that it unearths some interesting finds.
I have to admit that I was a little unsure about the title of the magazine when I first heard it and we did talk about this when we first heard about the magazine but the Editor's (Steve Doyle) letter helped to change my mind:
We invite you into our strange little world...would you care for a coffee and walnut cake? This video makes me realise the degree to which I am Susie's little bit of rough though, I need to take classes in annunciation!
Sunday, 2 November 2008
Just to let you know that we've put up a little poll on the sidebar. We're curious to know a bit more about our readers, so starting with the basics- are you manly men or foxy ladies? We've been surprised by the number of women reading the blog (you're all welcome, of course!) and wanted to find out exactly what the ratio of men to women is. If you could take a second to let us know, we'll be very grateful. The poll's going to be open for 2 weeks.
Steve and EJ
The recycled warrior look dissected with details...